Thursday, May 20, 2010

The Long Road to Najera

Today we walked 21 kilomters from Navarrete to Najera that started with vineyards and mountain views. It ended with a long slog through industrial and commercial areas. We overshot the albergue and a kind Dutch woman helped us find our way back.

We are encountering all sorts of characters on the camino. One of them we have given the nickname ¨Dino de Camino´. Dino is in his late 50s and looks quite fit. We first saw him yesterday morning when he was making new friends at the local outside bar. As we were waiting several hours for the albergue to open, we had the chance to watch Dino in action. He is very skilled at waiting just long enough for someone else to pay for his drinks.

Dino became notorious after last night when four couples, including ourselves, were blasted by his snoring, accompanied by bouts of yelling out in Spanish and flailing around. Dino wins Jim´s award for the overall loudest sleeper ever. By morning, we all wanted Dino dead.....

Dino must have known we had thoughts of killing him because he left quickly upon rising. We next saw Dino at the first cafe bar on route. While everyone else was ordering coffees or tea, Dino ordered his first red wine of the day. And then his second. Oh, did we not mention it was only 9 a.m.? Dino is in our alburgue tonight but thankfully he is at the far end. We feel very sorry for whomever is unlucky enough to be trying to sleep in his immediate vicinity tonight.

For our art history lovers, we can tell you that in Nvarrete we saw in the local church what is reported to one of the finest Baroque retablos in Spain. It was breathtaking in terms of the gilt and frescoes that comprised it. We only hope the photos taken will do it some justice!

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