Everyone was commenting on how great it was to be going downhill on a short day of 17kilometers. That opinion changed as we walked for 8 kilometers in 30 degrees Celsius. Needless to say the beer vending machine is doing a booming business!
We are in Ponteferrada now. Several pilgrims thought it would be nice to have a break from the 180 bed alburgue and stay at a private alburgue or hotel. Hah! As they so often say, there was no room at the inn. We are now staying with 178 of our new closest friends at the municipal alburgue. Actually it is quite nice. It has a garden, a fountain, and a beautiful view of the snowcapped mountains. In some ways, it feels to both of us like staying at a conference hotel where everyone is attending the same conference.
We are spending tomorrow at Ponteferrada to explore the Knights´Templars castle and the local art gallery. So far, we have covered 270.5 kilomters on the Camino. We have 211 kilomters to go until Santiago. Today over a drink or two with an Australian acquaintance, we all admitted freely that we will never do the Camino again. Once, as they say, is enough.
Jim and our English walking friend Sue had their maladies looked at today by a medico here at the alburgue. He was not too impressed with Jim´s blisters and gave him only a mecuricrom swab and bandage. Sue got the full meal deal, including a compression stocking.
One of the wonderful moments today was coming down a kilomters long pass to arrive at a fruit stand with fresh cherries. We gobbled them down!
Monday, May 31, 2010
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Up and down, down and up, then down
Today was a series of hills that took us up into the mountains, then down, then up again. Beautiful views of mountains and hillsides along the way. Finished up with a loooong downhill that will continue for another 17 kilometres tomorrow.
At the end, we shared the trail with motocross and quad riders. It was surreal after so many days of walkers and bicylists!
We stopped today at a small and primitive alburgue in the valley. It had no running water but the staff were very friendly and provided free fruit, cookies and coffee. They also had the friendliest cats and dogs we have encountered in Spain. Most animals tend to be pretty skittish, reflecting the poor treatment they receive. These animals were just like our own. One cat cuddled up to Wendy and stayed there for 15 minutes, purring loudly.
We have hit the half way point of our time on the Camino. Like others, we sometimes find ourselves saying ¨What the hell are we doing out here?¨ However, after slogging along one arrives in a town, gets a bed, has a beer, gets showered, and eats. After that, a good sleep, one finds him/herself back on the trail and doing it all again for another day.
At our alburgue today is a Korean man who is walking the Camino for the third time. He did it last year and returned this year with his wife. The alburgue volunteer had actually walked some of the Camino with him last year, so both were pleased to renew acquaitances.
Wendy climbed her first mountain today ever and is very pleased she survived! Tomorrow we move on to Ponferrada, a city of 63,000 people. We may take a day off since we will have walked almost 110 kilometers in 5 days.
At the end, we shared the trail with motocross and quad riders. It was surreal after so many days of walkers and bicylists!
We stopped today at a small and primitive alburgue in the valley. It had no running water but the staff were very friendly and provided free fruit, cookies and coffee. They also had the friendliest cats and dogs we have encountered in Spain. Most animals tend to be pretty skittish, reflecting the poor treatment they receive. These animals were just like our own. One cat cuddled up to Wendy and stayed there for 15 minutes, purring loudly.
We have hit the half way point of our time on the Camino. Like others, we sometimes find ourselves saying ¨What the hell are we doing out here?¨ However, after slogging along one arrives in a town, gets a bed, has a beer, gets showered, and eats. After that, a good sleep, one finds him/herself back on the trail and doing it all again for another day.
At our alburgue today is a Korean man who is walking the Camino for the third time. He did it last year and returned this year with his wife. The alburgue volunteer had actually walked some of the Camino with him last year, so both were pleased to renew acquaitances.
Wendy climbed her first mountain today ever and is very pleased she survived! Tomorrow we move on to Ponferrada, a city of 63,000 people. We may take a day off since we will have walked almost 110 kilometers in 5 days.
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Making Our Way into the Mountains
We left the meseta behind and began to climb into the mountains today. Over the course of 21 kilometers we gained several hundred meters in altitude. We arrived at Rabanal de Camino, a town of 50 inhabitants (but three alburgues!)high in the hills of the Cordillera area of Northern Spain.
We have noticed that the density of pilgrim traffic has picked up since Leon. Early in our travels, we could walk along the Camino for quite a while and only see the odd one of two pilgrims up ahead or behind. Now, when one looks ahead there are groups of 6 to 8 pilgrims as well as an equal number behind. However, in the early stages of the Camino, a number of people were only walking for a week or two. They would finish at any number of points and return home. Now, everyone on the trail is bound for Santiago. This means the coffee bars are more crowded in the mornings and the alburgues fill up sooner in the late afternoon.
Yesterday we passed a village where one of the inhabitants (a man who walked the Camino to Santiago)has set up a tray of cookies and other treats for pilgrims. We actually got to thank him for his generosity personally as he happened to be standing outside when we walked by. Such acts are not uncommon. We are commonly greeted by Spaniards who wish us a ¨Buen camino!¨
We have noticed that the density of pilgrim traffic has picked up since Leon. Early in our travels, we could walk along the Camino for quite a while and only see the odd one of two pilgrims up ahead or behind. Now, when one looks ahead there are groups of 6 to 8 pilgrims as well as an equal number behind. However, in the early stages of the Camino, a number of people were only walking for a week or two. They would finish at any number of points and return home. Now, everyone on the trail is bound for Santiago. This means the coffee bars are more crowded in the mornings and the alburgues fill up sooner in the late afternoon.
Yesterday we passed a village where one of the inhabitants (a man who walked the Camino to Santiago)has set up a tray of cookies and other treats for pilgrims. We actually got to thank him for his generosity personally as he happened to be standing outside when we walked by. Such acts are not uncommon. We are commonly greeted by Spaniards who wish us a ¨Buen camino!¨
Friday, May 28, 2010
How Time Flies!
We were shocked to realize that it has been four days since we last updated the blog. We enjoyed three days off from the Camino: two in Burgos and one in Leon. The time off really helped us get over the worst of our colds. We are both feeling more energetic and coughing a lot less.
Some of our highlights of the time in Burgos included touring the cathedral and taking in a pretty good museum. We also encountered the only vegetarian restaurant we have seen in Spain so far. Wendy was in heaven!
We travelled by bus the 180 kilometers or so from Burgos to Leon. We walked around the city centre a bit and saw the exterior of Leon´s cathedral. Pretty impressive, but not as grand as the one in Burgos.
As always, it is people we encounter along the way that are of greatest interest. Here are a few vignettes:
Overheard on the Burgos to Leon bus from one women: "I just lost in one hour the two people I had been travelling with for the last two weeks."
A Dutch man from near Rotterdam who began walking in early March and, when he reaches Santiago on June 10th will have walked 2,600 kilometers. His wife is joining him for the last 100 kilomters into Santiago.
A mother and adult daughter from the Czech Republic who are travelling together on the Camino. Mom pushes her daughter in her wheelchair about 15 kilometers each day.
We had a delightful dinner with them yesterday in a tiny town called St. Martin of the Camino. The daughter is a translator and speaks excellent English. She effortlessly translated between English and Czech when needed.
Tonight we are in Astorga, having travelled about 50 kilometers in the past two days since Leon. This part of the camino is very dry, the Spanish call it the meseta. Leon to Astorga is the last remnant of the meseta before we head into the mountainous Cordillera area, starting tomorrow.
During the past two days, we have had the option of travelling one of two different routes on the Camino. The original Camino route travels parallel and usually just a few metres from the main highway. The purists take this route because it is the original Camino route. It is also somewhat more direct. The second option is the more scenic route that winds its way through rolling hills. We have experienced both routes. We found the route tracking the highway to be ok with relatively light traffic noise. The scenic route had rolling hills that made it more demanding while offering less scenery than we might have hoped.
We are hoping to see a Gaudi designed church here in Astorga, if we can stir ourselves to keep moving. Not always easy after a day out on the Camino!
Some of our highlights of the time in Burgos included touring the cathedral and taking in a pretty good museum. We also encountered the only vegetarian restaurant we have seen in Spain so far. Wendy was in heaven!
We travelled by bus the 180 kilometers or so from Burgos to Leon. We walked around the city centre a bit and saw the exterior of Leon´s cathedral. Pretty impressive, but not as grand as the one in Burgos.
As always, it is people we encounter along the way that are of greatest interest. Here are a few vignettes:
Overheard on the Burgos to Leon bus from one women: "I just lost in one hour the two people I had been travelling with for the last two weeks."
A Dutch man from near Rotterdam who began walking in early March and, when he reaches Santiago on June 10th will have walked 2,600 kilometers. His wife is joining him for the last 100 kilomters into Santiago.
A mother and adult daughter from the Czech Republic who are travelling together on the Camino. Mom pushes her daughter in her wheelchair about 15 kilometers each day.
We had a delightful dinner with them yesterday in a tiny town called St. Martin of the Camino. The daughter is a translator and speaks excellent English. She effortlessly translated between English and Czech when needed.
Tonight we are in Astorga, having travelled about 50 kilometers in the past two days since Leon. This part of the camino is very dry, the Spanish call it the meseta. Leon to Astorga is the last remnant of the meseta before we head into the mountainous Cordillera area, starting tomorrow.
During the past two days, we have had the option of travelling one of two different routes on the Camino. The original Camino route travels parallel and usually just a few metres from the main highway. The purists take this route because it is the original Camino route. It is also somewhat more direct. The second option is the more scenic route that winds its way through rolling hills. We have experienced both routes. We found the route tracking the highway to be ok with relatively light traffic noise. The scenic route had rolling hills that made it more demanding while offering less scenery than we might have hoped.
We are hoping to see a Gaudi designed church here in Astorga, if we can stir ourselves to keep moving. Not always easy after a day out on the Camino!
Monday, May 24, 2010
Taking A Few Days Off
Both of us are now down with colds. We walked five kilometers to Belogrado yesterday and got a hotel room for the night. This morning, we jumped the bus to Burgos, about 50 kilomters away. Buses here are ridiculously cheap - just $2,80 Euros each to ride in a brand new, air conditioned bus.
We are staying at the Hotel Cid which is only 100 meters from the fabulous Burgos Cathedral. We spent several hours touring the cathedral and could probably go back for several more. It is one of the most outstanding cathedrals either of us have ever seen.
Today we ran into several people we first met in the first day or two of our travels. One often assumes everyone else is further ahead and we´ll not see them again. In fact, everyone takes time off here and there, so we end up becoming reacquainted again in yet another town on the road to Santiago.
We intend to stay here another day to rest and see the many sites. The day after that we will bus 180 kilometers to Leon, where we will start the second leg of our trip: the 300 kilomters to Santiago.
Wendy is thrilled to find an actual vegetarian restaurant in this land of meat lovers. This is especially fulfilling as those of us waiting for this morning´s bus ride got to witness the local butcher unload pig carcasses off this truck for about 10 minutes! Jim almost turned vegetarian himself after that.
We are staying at the Hotel Cid which is only 100 meters from the fabulous Burgos Cathedral. We spent several hours touring the cathedral and could probably go back for several more. It is one of the most outstanding cathedrals either of us have ever seen.
Today we ran into several people we first met in the first day or two of our travels. One often assumes everyone else is further ahead and we´ll not see them again. In fact, everyone takes time off here and there, so we end up becoming reacquainted again in yet another town on the road to Santiago.
We intend to stay here another day to rest and see the many sites. The day after that we will bus 180 kilometers to Leon, where we will start the second leg of our trip: the 300 kilomters to Santiago.
Wendy is thrilled to find an actual vegetarian restaurant in this land of meat lovers. This is especially fulfilling as those of us waiting for this morning´s bus ride got to witness the local butcher unload pig carcasses off this truck for about 10 minutes! Jim almost turned vegetarian himself after that.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Top Ten Things We Thought We Knew about Walking the Camino
A hot one today- we travelled about 20 kilomters in 30 degree temperatures, mainly along roads or roads under construction. We´re staying at a delightful little place between Belorado and Najera. It has just five of us staying here and we had a communal meal together.
We thought we´d give you the ten top things we have learned:
1. The walk is fairly flat. Hah! Up, down, around, then up and down again.
2. People are always sensitive to the needs of others. Hah! Tell that to the two women who tried to kill Jim in Najera with the obnoxious toxic linament they rubbed on their legs just before they closed the alburgue window and retired for the night.
3. We all believe in lining up. Hah! Men and women bowl their way to the front of the line, cut you off, and then order 15 different items while all you want to do is pay your bill.
4. Everyone tips for good service, don´t they? Hah! Don´t try this in Spain, they have no idea what you are doing. Tips are included in the bill as a tax.
5. When the instructions say, do not leave the alburgue before 6 a.m., people will follw them. Hah! People get up at and start packing at 4:45 a.m. using their high beam flashlights while loudly whispering in some guttural European language so as not to disturb (hah!) those of us who are by now fully awake.
6. We are in Spain, so everyone will at least try to speak some Spanish, right? Hah! Germans expect everyone to understand German, the French expect the same. We are freaks as we both try to speak and understand Spanish.
7. You can pick your own fruit at the local market. Hah! Do not touch the fruit. No, no! You tell the fruit lady how many oranges you want, she picks them, weighs them, wraps them, and then.....you pay for them. Only then is fruit touching invoked.
8. Vegetables and fruit are plentiful and in abundance. Hah! The potato is Spain´s national vegetable followed by the olive. White aspargus is really exotic and we have observed Spaniards eating them. Wendy has been served meat every day she has been here, despite being a vegetarian. Iceberg lettuce has become a new candy for her!
9. Spanish people are incredibly kind, understanding and helpful. No hah here. They are just that. They don´t even laugh at our Spanish (at least until we leave).
10. People on the Camino are incredibly interesting and come from all walks of life and experiences. Again, no hah. Every day is an opportunity to meet someone new, interesting, and enjoying the experience of walking, whether it is for two weeks, a month, six months, or more.
We thought we´d give you the ten top things we have learned:
1. The walk is fairly flat. Hah! Up, down, around, then up and down again.
2. People are always sensitive to the needs of others. Hah! Tell that to the two women who tried to kill Jim in Najera with the obnoxious toxic linament they rubbed on their legs just before they closed the alburgue window and retired for the night.
3. We all believe in lining up. Hah! Men and women bowl their way to the front of the line, cut you off, and then order 15 different items while all you want to do is pay your bill.
4. Everyone tips for good service, don´t they? Hah! Don´t try this in Spain, they have no idea what you are doing. Tips are included in the bill as a tax.
5. When the instructions say, do not leave the alburgue before 6 a.m., people will follw them. Hah! People get up at and start packing at 4:45 a.m. using their high beam flashlights while loudly whispering in some guttural European language so as not to disturb (hah!) those of us who are by now fully awake.
6. We are in Spain, so everyone will at least try to speak some Spanish, right? Hah! Germans expect everyone to understand German, the French expect the same. We are freaks as we both try to speak and understand Spanish.
7. You can pick your own fruit at the local market. Hah! Do not touch the fruit. No, no! You tell the fruit lady how many oranges you want, she picks them, weighs them, wraps them, and then.....you pay for them. Only then is fruit touching invoked.
8. Vegetables and fruit are plentiful and in abundance. Hah! The potato is Spain´s national vegetable followed by the olive. White aspargus is really exotic and we have observed Spaniards eating them. Wendy has been served meat every day she has been here, despite being a vegetarian. Iceberg lettuce has become a new candy for her!
9. Spanish people are incredibly kind, understanding and helpful. No hah here. They are just that. They don´t even laugh at our Spanish (at least until we leave).
10. People on the Camino are incredibly interesting and come from all walks of life and experiences. Again, no hah. Every day is an opportunity to meet someone new, interesting, and enjoying the experience of walking, whether it is for two weeks, a month, six months, or more.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Beginning Week Two on the Camino
Today was our eighth day on the Camino. We walked 21 kilomters from Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzado. As of now, we have walked 142 kilometers in total.
Our walk today took us past vineyards and crops that are watered by gravity flow aquaducts. These semi-circular concrete pipes are situated so that water flows down hill to water the crops. Jim took waaaay too many pictures of these things. He promises to thoroughly edit these down to a few aquaduct photos to show to interested friends and family members!
We met a Canadian couple today, one of only a handful of Canadians we have met on the trip to date. Mike is riding a bike and Suzanne is walking. They travel together and he rides beside her at a walking pace. Mike was originally training to walk the Camino but developed heel problems that could not be treated. He switched to biking and they are doing the Camino that way.
Speaking of biking, there are a number of people doing the Camino by bike. They are riding mountain bikes with thick tires and carrying saddle bags. Everyone wears bike helmets which is quite a change from when Jim bike toured in Europe during 1983. At that time, no one wore them. Jim actually caused a Dutch woman to break into whoops of laughter at seeing him wearing his bike helmet!
Talk about what a difference a day makes. Last night, we spent with 93 of our new friends in an alburgue that resembled something out of U.S. basic training movies. You know the one, with about 50 bunk beds lined up along each wall and one down the centre of the room. As one Norwegian fellow said this morning,¨It was so hot last night, it felt like a sauna, but not a good one, a smelly one!¨
Tonight we are at the Hilton of alburgues. Thoroughly modern with beautiful clean rooms, open windows, and just 12 people each to a large sized room. It has tables to sit outside on a patio, a modern kitchen, and plenty of showers and washroom facilities for everyone. This place actually has a capacity of 130 people. However, it feels so much more roomy and comfortable because it is spread over two stories.
We are really enjoying Spain and thinking that it would be fun to come back sometime and rent a place and stay a few weeks, perhaps in Barcelona. This would also be an incentive to keep learning Spanish after this trip is over.
Our walk today took us past vineyards and crops that are watered by gravity flow aquaducts. These semi-circular concrete pipes are situated so that water flows down hill to water the crops. Jim took waaaay too many pictures of these things. He promises to thoroughly edit these down to a few aquaduct photos to show to interested friends and family members!
We met a Canadian couple today, one of only a handful of Canadians we have met on the trip to date. Mike is riding a bike and Suzanne is walking. They travel together and he rides beside her at a walking pace. Mike was originally training to walk the Camino but developed heel problems that could not be treated. He switched to biking and they are doing the Camino that way.
Speaking of biking, there are a number of people doing the Camino by bike. They are riding mountain bikes with thick tires and carrying saddle bags. Everyone wears bike helmets which is quite a change from when Jim bike toured in Europe during 1983. At that time, no one wore them. Jim actually caused a Dutch woman to break into whoops of laughter at seeing him wearing his bike helmet!
Talk about what a difference a day makes. Last night, we spent with 93 of our new friends in an alburgue that resembled something out of U.S. basic training movies. You know the one, with about 50 bunk beds lined up along each wall and one down the centre of the room. As one Norwegian fellow said this morning,¨It was so hot last night, it felt like a sauna, but not a good one, a smelly one!¨
Tonight we are at the Hilton of alburgues. Thoroughly modern with beautiful clean rooms, open windows, and just 12 people each to a large sized room. It has tables to sit outside on a patio, a modern kitchen, and plenty of showers and washroom facilities for everyone. This place actually has a capacity of 130 people. However, it feels so much more roomy and comfortable because it is spread over two stories.
We are really enjoying Spain and thinking that it would be fun to come back sometime and rent a place and stay a few weeks, perhaps in Barcelona. This would also be an incentive to keep learning Spanish after this trip is over.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
The Long Road to Najera
Today we walked 21 kilomters from Navarrete to Najera that started with vineyards and mountain views. It ended with a long slog through industrial and commercial areas. We overshot the albergue and a kind Dutch woman helped us find our way back.
We are encountering all sorts of characters on the camino. One of them we have given the nickname ¨Dino de Camino´. Dino is in his late 50s and looks quite fit. We first saw him yesterday morning when he was making new friends at the local outside bar. As we were waiting several hours for the albergue to open, we had the chance to watch Dino in action. He is very skilled at waiting just long enough for someone else to pay for his drinks.
Dino became notorious after last night when four couples, including ourselves, were blasted by his snoring, accompanied by bouts of yelling out in Spanish and flailing around. Dino wins Jim´s award for the overall loudest sleeper ever. By morning, we all wanted Dino dead.....
Dino must have known we had thoughts of killing him because he left quickly upon rising. We next saw Dino at the first cafe bar on route. While everyone else was ordering coffees or tea, Dino ordered his first red wine of the day. And then his second. Oh, did we not mention it was only 9 a.m.? Dino is in our alburgue tonight but thankfully he is at the far end. We feel very sorry for whomever is unlucky enough to be trying to sleep in his immediate vicinity tonight.
For our art history lovers, we can tell you that in Nvarrete we saw in the local church what is reported to one of the finest Baroque retablos in Spain. It was breathtaking in terms of the gilt and frescoes that comprised it. We only hope the photos taken will do it some justice!
We are encountering all sorts of characters on the camino. One of them we have given the nickname ¨Dino de Camino´. Dino is in his late 50s and looks quite fit. We first saw him yesterday morning when he was making new friends at the local outside bar. As we were waiting several hours for the albergue to open, we had the chance to watch Dino in action. He is very skilled at waiting just long enough for someone else to pay for his drinks.
Dino became notorious after last night when four couples, including ourselves, were blasted by his snoring, accompanied by bouts of yelling out in Spanish and flailing around. Dino wins Jim´s award for the overall loudest sleeper ever. By morning, we all wanted Dino dead.....
Dino must have known we had thoughts of killing him because he left quickly upon rising. We next saw Dino at the first cafe bar on route. While everyone else was ordering coffees or tea, Dino ordered his first red wine of the day. And then his second. Oh, did we not mention it was only 9 a.m.? Dino is in our alburgue tonight but thankfully he is at the far end. We feel very sorry for whomever is unlucky enough to be trying to sleep in his immediate vicinity tonight.
For our art history lovers, we can tell you that in Nvarrete we saw in the local church what is reported to one of the finest Baroque retablos in Spain. It was breathtaking in terms of the gilt and frescoes that comprised it. We only hope the photos taken will do it some justice!
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Respite in Locarño before on to Navarrete
We stepped off the camino for the first time yesterday, to catch a bus to Locarño, a bus ride of about 10 kilomters. Wendy was fighting a cold and feeling very tired. We took a hotel, Wendy slept, and I explored the major Rioja region city of apprxokmately 150,000 people. There were expansive walkways and sidestreets where cars could not travel. Saw a Michelangelo Pieta in one of the major churches. Also saw a monument to victims of the Madrid terrorist attack in 2006.
Wendy was feeling much better today after a day of rest. We walked 13 kilomters to Navarrete. We arrived about 11 a.m. and had a leisurely breakfast and snacks while waiting for the aubergue to open at 2 p.m. This centre is known for its pottery as well as the caves where its mushrooms and wines are stored. The weather has turned very pleasant in the past two days with highs in the low 20s. It has still been cooler for walking in the mornings, which is great. After walking, we can sit in the sun at the local bar and enjoy our coffee/tea.
Today we hit a total of 100 kilomters walked so far. We have met others who have walked much further, some of whom are doing 30 kilometers a day. They start later in the morning than we do, and tend to take several 45 or 60 minute breaks, arriving at their destination in the early evening. We think our pokey 20 kilomters a day that has us finished by 1 p.m. gives us time to explore the towns and rest our bodies for the next day.
We have had several requests for photographs on our site. Unfortunately, we are dependent on using internet cafes that do not allow us to hook up our camera and download photos. However, upon our return, we would be pleased to show a sensible number of slides to any and all who are interested.
Wendy was feeling much better today after a day of rest. We walked 13 kilomters to Navarrete. We arrived about 11 a.m. and had a leisurely breakfast and snacks while waiting for the aubergue to open at 2 p.m. This centre is known for its pottery as well as the caves where its mushrooms and wines are stored. The weather has turned very pleasant in the past two days with highs in the low 20s. It has still been cooler for walking in the mornings, which is great. After walking, we can sit in the sun at the local bar and enjoy our coffee/tea.
Today we hit a total of 100 kilomters walked so far. We have met others who have walked much further, some of whom are doing 30 kilometers a day. They start later in the morning than we do, and tend to take several 45 or 60 minute breaks, arriving at their destination in the early evening. We think our pokey 20 kilomters a day that has us finished by 1 p.m. gives us time to explore the towns and rest our bodies for the next day.
We have had several requests for photographs on our site. Unfortunately, we are dependent on using internet cafes that do not allow us to hook up our camera and download photos. However, upon our return, we would be pleased to show a sensible number of slides to any and all who are interested.
Monday, May 17, 2010
Arriving in Viana (not Vienna)
No, you are not seeing things! It is Viana we arrived in today, not Vienna. We were joking about this with an Austrian couple we met yesterday who are from Austria.
This is Day Five in our journey and we have now covered approximately 90 kilometers. We had a long walk through vineyards with approximately 10 kilomters between centres. This can be somewhat challenging if food gets short, as there we often are in the middle of nowhere. It forces us to think ahead about what we need to keep our energy up.
Our days have now evolved into a routine. We are up by 6 a.m., eating breakfast on our own or having something at the aubergue if they serve breakfast. We then walk for about 90 minutes before getting cafe con leche and tea. After that we walk for another two hours before having some lunch. After that, it´s another hour walk and we arrive at our destination (usually between 12 p.m. and 1:30. After that, its getting set up at the aubergue, showering, getting a small bite to eat or a drink, reading (or sleeping), until about 7 or 7:30 p.m. when we go for dinner. Pelegrin dinners tend to be fairly inexpensive three course meals that include pasta, meat, dessert, bottled water and wine. They don´t vary a lot but so far we are not bored with them and they are filling. We are usually all in bed, asleep by 9 or 10 p.m. I have found my ear plugs work wonders for getting a sound sleep!
This is Day Five in our journey and we have now covered approximately 90 kilometers. We had a long walk through vineyards with approximately 10 kilomters between centres. This can be somewhat challenging if food gets short, as there we often are in the middle of nowhere. It forces us to think ahead about what we need to keep our energy up.
Our days have now evolved into a routine. We are up by 6 a.m., eating breakfast on our own or having something at the aubergue if they serve breakfast. We then walk for about 90 minutes before getting cafe con leche and tea. After that we walk for another two hours before having some lunch. After that, it´s another hour walk and we arrive at our destination (usually between 12 p.m. and 1:30. After that, its getting set up at the aubergue, showering, getting a small bite to eat or a drink, reading (or sleeping), until about 7 or 7:30 p.m. when we go for dinner. Pelegrin dinners tend to be fairly inexpensive three course meals that include pasta, meat, dessert, bottled water and wine. They don´t vary a lot but so far we are not bored with them and they are filling. We are usually all in bed, asleep by 9 or 10 p.m. I have found my ear plugs work wonders for getting a sound sleep!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
On to Los Arcos
Tonight we are sipping red wine after dinner at our alburgue in Los Arcos (another site visible on our blog). We completed about 18 kilometers, climbing 250 meters in about 1.5 kilomters. We visited a simple Romanesque church in Villamayor de Manjardin that had an ambience that was as powerful as one could find at the finest cathedral.
Once again, the Germans have shown that they are the world´s greatest travellers. The alburgue is full of them. However, they are good company and always willing to have some fun We shared a good laugh about someone using a ringer washer here at the alburgue. All of us of a certain age knew how a ringer washer worked. One poor guy did not and he created his own sketch comedy routine by trying to use it (backwards, sideways, upside down, etc.).
We had a an expensive but amazing pellagrino(pilgrim) dinner tonight. These are three course meals that include wine and dessert.
It is unseasonably cold here in northern Spain. The Spanish go around in scarves, gloves, and winter coats while we wear shorts and sandles. We´re not saying it´s not cold, it´s just that we are Albertans, so we always wear shorts anytime after April 1st!
Tomorrow we are off to Viana, no not Vienna. The views of the broad beautiful valleys with vast vineyards continues. There are opportunities too numerous every day for photos. Basically you turn a corner and there is another picturesque scene.
Once again, the Germans have shown that they are the world´s greatest travellers. The alburgue is full of them. However, they are good company and always willing to have some fun We shared a good laugh about someone using a ringer washer here at the alburgue. All of us of a certain age knew how a ringer washer worked. One poor guy did not and he created his own sketch comedy routine by trying to use it (backwards, sideways, upside down, etc.).
We had a an expensive but amazing pellagrino(pilgrim) dinner tonight. These are three course meals that include wine and dessert.
It is unseasonably cold here in northern Spain. The Spanish go around in scarves, gloves, and winter coats while we wear shorts and sandles. We´re not saying it´s not cold, it´s just that we are Albertans, so we always wear shorts anytime after April 1st!
Tomorrow we are off to Viana, no not Vienna. The views of the broad beautiful valleys with vast vineyards continues. There are opportunities too numerous every day for photos. Basically you turn a corner and there is another picturesque scene.
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Life in Irache
Today was a lower mileage day. The third day of walking with packs created some tight hamstrings and quads.The terrain has been varied and with the rain, the mud was added weight. We are finding that while it is all fine in theory to talk about walking 25 kilomters a day, the reality is quite different. Weather conditions, terrain, and availability of albergues and hotels means one needs to be flexible about your walking plan. We have now concluded there is no way we can walk the entire distance in the time we have allocated. Our plan now is to be flexible and identify the least interesting upcoming terrain to bus through. This will also give us time to explore the larger cities such as Burgos and Leon.
Last night, in Lorca which was established in 982 AD, we joined in the local festival celebrations for about 20 minutes (who knew Jim could polka). Thanks to earplugs all at the albergue slept well. The torch light parade started at 1:00 a.m.(after the band finished) and the last celebration started at 5 a.m. The staff at the albergue left the second floor door open so we would not disturb them when we left this morning at 7:30 a.m.
The big event for today was the WINE FOUNTAIN at the winery in Irache. Free water and wine was readily available at a dispenser attached to the winery. You could even use the webcam to link to friends on the Internet.
We are staying in Irache (population of about 100 or less). Right now we are being serenaded by revellers in the hotel parking lot(and it´s only 7 p.m.). Needless to say the Spanish live life to the fullest and love to party. There is currently a dance party going on at the hotel. Who knew that ¨Delilah¨by Tom Jones was still a hit?
Last night, in Lorca which was established in 982 AD, we joined in the local festival celebrations for about 20 minutes (who knew Jim could polka). Thanks to earplugs all at the albergue slept well. The torch light parade started at 1:00 a.m.(after the band finished) and the last celebration started at 5 a.m. The staff at the albergue left the second floor door open so we would not disturb them when we left this morning at 7:30 a.m.
The big event for today was the WINE FOUNTAIN at the winery in Irache. Free water and wine was readily available at a dispenser attached to the winery. You could even use the webcam to link to friends on the Internet.
We are staying in Irache (population of about 100 or less). Right now we are being serenaded by revellers in the hotel parking lot(and it´s only 7 p.m.). Needless to say the Spanish live life to the fullest and love to party. There is currently a dance party going on at the hotel. Who knew that ¨Delilah¨by Tom Jones was still a hit?
Friday, May 14, 2010
Walking On Ancient Roman Road
Today we left Uterga at about 7 a.m. and, with a 30 minute break for breakfast, we walked 21 kilomters to Lorca, finishing at about 2 p.m. The walk into Lorca featured travelling over the remains of a road constructed by the Romans as well as two Roman bridges.
Today was not as tough a walk as yesterday, however, there were still two major climbs. The weather was unsettled, requiring us to make numerous changes as the sun came out or clouded over. Beautiful scenery, however, with broad green valleys, vineyards, and almond trees. Picturesque towns with red roofed buildings sit on hills.
We have found another great alburgue or hostel to stay tonight. They even have washers, dryers, and a local massage therapist on the payroll. The village of Lorca where we are staying is having a major festival tonight. There will be music, singing, dancing, and, we suspect, the odd drink or two. We were warned about this when we checked in, in case we wanted to avoid the noise and move to the next town. We decided to stay, thinking we will probably be asleep by 10 p.m. anyway, no matter how loud the festivities are.
We are meeting all types of pilgrims who are travel for a wide variety of reasons. Some are walking as part of their religious faith or spiritual reasons. Some are here for the physical challenge of walking hundreds of kilometers. Still others are interested in viewing the ancient churches or other buildings found in every town we go through.
Tomorrow will have us finally moving past Estella on the map we posted on the blog.
Today was not as tough a walk as yesterday, however, there were still two major climbs. The weather was unsettled, requiring us to make numerous changes as the sun came out or clouded over. Beautiful scenery, however, with broad green valleys, vineyards, and almond trees. Picturesque towns with red roofed buildings sit on hills.
We have found another great alburgue or hostel to stay tonight. They even have washers, dryers, and a local massage therapist on the payroll. The village of Lorca where we are staying is having a major festival tonight. There will be music, singing, dancing, and, we suspect, the odd drink or two. We were warned about this when we checked in, in case we wanted to avoid the noise and move to the next town. We decided to stay, thinking we will probably be asleep by 10 p.m. anyway, no matter how loud the festivities are.
We are meeting all types of pilgrims who are travel for a wide variety of reasons. Some are walking as part of their religious faith or spiritual reasons. Some are here for the physical challenge of walking hundreds of kilometers. Still others are interested in viewing the ancient churches or other buildings found in every town we go through.
Tomorrow will have us finally moving past Estella on the map we posted on the blog.
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Finally Walking the Camino!
Spent the early evening touring the old city centre of Pamplona. Jim saw the street where the running of the bulls occurs. This killed the last vestige of any desire he had to run with bulls in such narrow confines. The old fortified walls of Pamplona are still well preserved. Jim has not seen more formidable forticiations of a European city other than Luxembourg City.
We went to dinner after that and met a group of Irish couples who are travelling the Camino in style. They are walking for the next week, carrying no packs. They then stay at a nice hotel at the end of each day. Wendy and I are wondering why we didn´t come up with this idea ourselves. Just kidding!
We began our walk out of Pamplona this morning at about 7:30 a.m. Within a minute, we came upon a couple from Ontario who were starting their fifth day on the Camino. From there, it was passing or being passed by 30 walkers during the morning. All ages, all sizes, all languages (well, German, Spanish, French, Korean, English, and Italian). The universal greeting regardless of language is usually "Buen camino"! (have a good camino walk). There were also cyclists riding heavy duty mountain bikes.
It was a challenging first day. We climbed roughly 300 metres over 4.5 kilometers, The views were amazing, however. We could hear wind turbines turning from the top of the hills we were climbing. During the last few kilometers today, we descended a very steep and rocky pathway. By the time we reached Uterega, almost 17 kilometers from Pamplona, we decided it had been a first day of walking and booked into the local auberge.
The facilities are very modern and comfortable. We have a bunkbed in a dormitory with about 20 people. Most of our room mates are German.
We went to dinner after that and met a group of Irish couples who are travelling the Camino in style. They are walking for the next week, carrying no packs. They then stay at a nice hotel at the end of each day. Wendy and I are wondering why we didn´t come up with this idea ourselves. Just kidding!
We began our walk out of Pamplona this morning at about 7:30 a.m. Within a minute, we came upon a couple from Ontario who were starting their fifth day on the Camino. From there, it was passing or being passed by 30 walkers during the morning. All ages, all sizes, all languages (well, German, Spanish, French, Korean, English, and Italian). The universal greeting regardless of language is usually "Buen camino"! (have a good camino walk). There were also cyclists riding heavy duty mountain bikes.
It was a challenging first day. We climbed roughly 300 metres over 4.5 kilometers, The views were amazing, however. We could hear wind turbines turning from the top of the hills we were climbing. During the last few kilometers today, we descended a very steep and rocky pathway. By the time we reached Uterega, almost 17 kilometers from Pamplona, we decided it had been a first day of walking and booked into the local auberge.
The facilities are very modern and comfortable. We have a bunkbed in a dormitory with about 20 people. Most of our room mates are German.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
on the train, again...
We spent a quiet day in Irun (just across the French border). The trains are very busy due to the volcanic ash cloud wreacking havoc on the flight schedules. Those who are trying to get home are rather stressed.
Spent the day reading reading signs and ordering food, groceries, etc. in Spanish (well Jim is speaking Spanish). Wendy is listening to Spanish, translating it to French, then English and confirming understanding with Jim who then is brave enought to speak Spanish.
On to Pamplona by train and then on the Camino tomorrow.
Spent the day reading reading signs and ordering food, groceries, etc. in Spanish (well Jim is speaking Spanish). Wendy is listening to Spanish, translating it to French, then English and confirming understanding with Jim who then is brave enought to speak Spanish.
On to Pamplona by train and then on the Camino tomorrow.
Monday, May 10, 2010
Train to Spain via Paris
After a third unsuccessful day, we missed out a chance to get on standby and two more flights were cancelled due to the volcanic ash cloud. By all accounts, the cloud seems likely to settle in on Spain for the next few days and all flights to Bilbao are fullz bookedwere offered the chance to take the train. We accepted. We are leaving tomorrow morning for Paris, where we will spend a few hours before catching a second train to Spain. We are headed to Irun, which is just over the Spanish border. We will spend the night there, before moving on to either Roncesvalles or Pamplona, depending on connections.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Frankfurt Day Three
Our flight to Bilbao was cancelled last night with less than 10 minutes until boarding. Volcano ash cloud has moved into Frankfurt area. The ash cloud is huge: it extends from the Atlantic Ocean as far as the Mediterranean, covering a huge geographical area. Strangely, for such a dominant phenomena, the media has not yet come up with a catchy name for the cloud.
We are lucky that European airlines feel a sense of responsibility for their passengers. We have been put up at hotels and fed at their expense.
So far, we are well-rested, well-fed, and maintaining our sense of humour. Unlike many of our fellow passengers, we have no pressing appointments or obligations. While we do not have our backpacks, our quick dry clothing can be washed nightly and is dry by morning. We are making the the best of the situation, however, one can only read so many free newspapers and drink so many free coffees and hot chocolates!
Jim is rediscovering his German language skills while Wendy is picking up a knowledge of key words and phases: danke, rot wein, and annulieren (cancelled).
We are on standby for three flights to Bilbao today. Hopefully this will be the day we move on.
We are lucky that European airlines feel a sense of responsibility for their passengers. We have been put up at hotels and fed at their expense.
So far, we are well-rested, well-fed, and maintaining our sense of humour. Unlike many of our fellow passengers, we have no pressing appointments or obligations. While we do not have our backpacks, our quick dry clothing can be washed nightly and is dry by morning. We are making the the best of the situation, however, one can only read so many free newspapers and drink so many free coffees and hot chocolates!
Jim is rediscovering his German language skills while Wendy is picking up a knowledge of key words and phases: danke, rot wein, and annulieren (cancelled).
We are on standby for three flights to Bilbao today. Hopefully this will be the day we move on.
Another day spent waiting to fly out of Frankfurt. Spent evening at hotel that Lufthansa paid for. Wendy was the last person who could have gotten out earlier this afternoon on standby. We decided to stay together and get seats out on tonights 9 p.m. flight. The volcano cloud has now moved into southern Germany cancelling flights to Munich and Zurich. Hopefully, the cloud stays put so we can get to Bilbao tonight.
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Not there yet
Just like the amazing race. Still in Frankfurt due to volcanic cloud hanging overBilbao. Smoking cubicles are very busy. Lots of pets travelling too! Coffee and hot chocolate is terrific! Hoping to get out to Bilbao later tonight.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Welcome family, friends, and those interested in our Camino trek. Wendy and I will share with you our experiences as we trek over a six-week period from Roncesvalles to Santiago, a distance of 750 kilometers. We hope to find Internet cafes along our route to keep you updated.
We leave on May 7th and fly to Bilbao. We are looking forward to taking in the Guggenheim Museum during our day or two there. From there, we plan to take the train east to Pamplona and a bus to Ronceville where our Camino walk will hopefully begin on May 11th.
We leave on May 7th and fly to Bilbao. We are looking forward to taking in the Guggenheim Museum during our day or two there. From there, we plan to take the train east to Pamplona and a bus to Ronceville where our Camino walk will hopefully begin on May 11th.
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